January 2009 newsletter

Lou  Recantou   & L 'Ancien Pressoir

Related books & links


Lou Recantou:         the cottage         guestbook comments
L'Ancien Pressoir:         the apartment         guestbook comments
Availability & rates     Booking conditions     Booking information
The area     Places to visit     Outdoor activities     Photos of the region
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Books

Travel info:

Michelin Red Guide, France: hotels, restaurants and town maps

The Green Guide to France, from Michelin: good book for organizing a trip, with lots of maps, photos and a star system for choosing highlights

Eyewitness Travel Guide, France, from Dorling Kindersley: beautifully illustrated and easy-to-use guide covering all of France.

The Rough Guide to Languedoc & Roussillon: opiniated, with lots of practical information

Languedoc-Roussillon, from Cadogan Guides: detailed and well-written; lots of background information.

The Green Guide to Languedoc Roussillon and the Tarn Gorges, from Michelin: good book for organizing a trip, with lots of maps, photos and symbols.

Languedoc and South-west France; Signpost guides from Thomas Cook: especially good for planning excursions by car.

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Food:

Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials, by Laura Werlin: "An Insider's Guide to Buying and Serving Cheese" with everything you could possibly want to know about cheese, sumptuous photos and 50 recipes.

French Cheeses, from Dorling Kindersley: good photos and descriptions of more than 350 cheeses from every region of France.

The French Market, by Joanne Harris (author of Chocolat), from Doubleday, 2005: markets and recipes in Gascony

History and misc. non-fiction:

The Perfect Heresy, by Stephen O'Shea, Canadian writer and historian: the best book we've read on the story of the Cathars.

Amor vs Roma, on CD. Presented on CBC Radio's Ideas in 2003, Amor vs Roma is a great way of listening to the story of the Cathars.
Available from various sources, including Amazon.ca

Chasing the Heretics, by Rion Klawinski, American travel writer: entertaining account of author's travels throughout the Languedoc in pursuit of the Cathar story.

Sixty Million Frenchmen Can't Be Wrong (why we love France but not the French), by Canadian writers Jean-Benoît Nadeau and Julie Barlow, from Harper Collins, 2003: hugely helpful in explaining France and the French to the rest of us.

The Discovery of France, by British writer Graham Robb, from WW Norton (Oct 2007): Winner of the 2008 Ondaatje Prize for the best book "evoking the spirit of a place". Travelling thousands of kilometres by bicycle, Robb discovered how disparate the cultures and languages of France were until little more than 100 years ago. A fascinating read, it offers new insights into the development of France as a country, including the role played by the bicycle.

And God Created the French, by Canadian writer Louis-Bernard Robitaille, from Robert Davies Publishing, 1995: Robitaille drew on his experience as Paris correspondent for Montreal's La Presse to write a "deftly amusing portrait of contemporary France".

Savoir Flair, by Polly Platt, from Culture Crossings, 2000: Platt, an American who has lived in Paris for many years, focuses on avoiding the minefields of French etiquette. Very useful, though less applicable in "La France Profonde", where people are much more relaxed.

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Outdoor:

The Collins Bird Guide, by Lars Svensson, from Harper Collins, 2004:
recommended to us as the best bird guide for Europe.

Cycling in France, from Ulysses; our edition (1997) has no routes for this area, but perhaps the 2003 edition has added routes.

Personal accounts (our favourites):

Hot Sun, Cool Shadow, by Angela Murrills, from Raincoast Books, 2004.
Murrills is a Canadian food writer who, with her husband Peter Matthews, has a house southwest of here. Nicely written, non-egotistic, several lovely recipes.

An Englishman in the Midi, by John P. Harris, from BBC Books, 1991.
A thin volume by a BBC broadcaster about life in his Languedoc village. One of my favourites.

A White House in Gascony, by Rex Grizell, from Victor Gollancz Books, 1992.
This is the book that inspired us (well, me, at least) and made us realize there was a way we could afford to live in southern France.

Fiction set in France:

The Good Men, by Charmaine Craig, from The Berkley Publishing Group, 2002.
Craig was a student in medieval literature at Harvard when she came across 14th century French Inquisition records, inspiring her to write this novel. From one reviewer: "I have never read so powerful an account, fictive or historical, of the Cathar rebels against the Roman Catholic Church. Craig's vision encompasses an entire culture, which was forever destroyed."

Signs of the Heart: Love and Death in Languedoc, by Christopher Hope, from Picador, 2000.
Hope's delightful book is set in nearby Caunes-Minervois (which he calls Kissac) and is full of eccentric characters and local colour. Highly recommended, especially if you're planning to come to this area. See one reader's online review of the book, by typing in "Signs of the Heart" and clicking on Hope's book.

Labyrinth, by Kate Mosse, from McArthur & Company, 2006.
Let me warn you that this is NOT great writing; it's full of clichés and banalities but, having said that, I would recommend Mosse's book to anyone interested in this part of France or its history. She has carefully researched her subject, the Cathars in the 13th century, and the book is very readable - a true page-turner.

Hôtel Pastis, by Peter Mayle, from Vintage Books, 1993.
Mayle, the author of A Year in Provence, is less known for his fiction. This isn't great literature, but it IS fun, especially for bicycle enthusiasts. It's about a group of out-of-shape thieves who train as lycra-clad cyclists to pull off a bank heist.

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Sources for books and maps:

On line (for viewing only):
Michelin: http://www.viamichelin.com
Click on ''Maps'' at the top of the page.

Maporama: http://www.maporama.com/share/

To purchase:
Novacks Travel Bookstore in London, Ontario, carries Michelin maps of France, as well as guide books, with tables and chairs for comfortable browsing. Novacks also sells a wide range of travel accessories.

Words Worth Books in Waterloo, Ontario. Order online or go to the shop and ask Tricia and Chuck about their stay with us, in L'Ancien Pressoir.

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Self-catering accommodation - Vacation homes in France - and one in Rome

In the area

Maison Beaufort (http://www.maisonbeaufort.com)
Beautifully decorated 3-bedroom house with large landscaped garden and pool, owned by four Canadian women friends.

Languedoc Gîtes (http://www.languedocgites.com)
Two properties in Olonzac and an apartment on the Canal de la Robine in Narbonne, owned and renovated by the Chapples, an Australian family.

Maison Eloi Merle   (http://www.eloimerle.com). Frédéric and Bénédicte are a warm and friendly bilingual French couple with 5 gîtes as well as bed & breakfast accommodation in the centre of Olonzac (all services within less than a 5-minute walk).

Pech d'André   (http://www.vfbholidays.co.uk/accom.aspx?p=cottage-Languedoc-REM34)   A well-established rural gîte nearby with a pool on a working wine-producing estate complete with wandering peacocks.   They also have a smaller property, called Le petit gîte
(http://www.lepechdandre.fr/Le_Pech/Bienvenue.html)

Le Domaine de St Germain
(http://pagesperso-orange.fr/gites.stgermain/pages/ang/p00UK.htm)
Two gîtes on a wine-producing property on a very quiet road in the country. Above-ground pool, friendly owners (with limited English). Next to the property is a small 12th century church with superb acoustics, where concerts are held from May through August.
E-mail contact: roger.pourthie@wanadoo.fr

La Ferme de Roquecave (http://www.roquecave.ouvaton.org/)
Two gîtes on a goat farm in the Montagne Noire, where Ingo & Carole (who both speak a little English) make their own cheese. Perfect for a family holiday, as there are children, donkeys, dogs & cats. Both gîtes attractively rustic but comfortable.

Les Lavandières (http://www.leslavandieres.com)
6 old houses of varying sizes, with antique furnishings and linens in medieval village. Owned and/or managed by South African couple who live nearby.

Domaine de l'Enclos (http://www.lenclos-apts.com/)
10 apartments converted from large wine storage facilities. Very large, shared pool and lush garden. Owned by English couple who live on the property.

La Bastide les Aliberts (http://www.gite.com/aliberts)
5 gîtes in converted 13th century fortified farm estate just south of Minerve. Large shared pool. Owned by French couple who live on site.

Maison Dixon (http://www.maisondixon.com/)
3 apartments in old building in village near Pézenas. Owned by Vancouver couple.


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In France

Paris: Simply Spoken (http://www.simplyspoken.com)
Tim and I have stayed twice in Canadians Pamela and Robert's homey and comfortable studio apartment for two in Montparnasse, surrounded by restaurants and bistros and handy to the Paris Métro.

Paris: Truffaut Property (http://www.rentalapartmentparis.com/)
Recommended by a family of four who stayed in Lou Recantou.

Loire Valley: Simply Spoken (http://www.simplyspoken.com)
Pamela and Robert also have a lovely little recently renovated, mid-18th century house for rent in an area well worth visiting near Saumur in the Loire Valley; we very much enjoyed our stay there in April 2009.

V.R.B.O.   (Vacation Rentals by Owners) (http://www.vrbo.com/)
We have chosen to advertise on this site after being told by friends and guests that it is one of the best, if not THE best, of the vacation rental sites on the Internet. V.R.B.O. lists rentals in many other countries as well.

France Direct (http://www.francedirect.com)

Book My Holiday Home (http://www.bookmyholidayhome.com/)

Van Gogh Worldwide Vacation Rentals (http://www.vangoghrentals.com/Regions.asp?Country=France&Submit=Search)

Chez Nous (http://www.cheznous.co.uk/)


In Rome

Studio Apartment Tritone   (http://www.acj.it/tritone/Welcome.html)
Tim and I stayed here for a week in November 2008; it's a great location in the centre of Rome, within walking distance of many of the great Roman monuments, including the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, the Pantheon and the Forum. Note: you have to climb 5 flights of stairs; the building has no elevator. If you'd like more information, please contact me.


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Bed & breakfast accommodation in the area

Maison Eloi Merle   (http://www.eloimerle.com). Frédéric and Bénédicte are a warm and friendly bilingual French couple with bed & breakfast accommodation as well as 5 gîtes in the centre of Olonzac (all services within less than a 5-minute walk).



Oupia and Languedoc:

http://wilf.ca/gallery.asp?GalleryID=lour
A few of Wilf Noordermeer's superb photographs of the area around Oupia

http://www.languedoc-france.info
A good site, in English, packed with all sorts of information about things to see and do in the Languedoc-Roussillon. This is the site you'll go to if you click on the Languedoc logo at the bottom of our web pages.

The Minervois
Lots of information on the area, including markets, wine, Canal du Midi and much more, also in English.

http://www.daytripsinsouthernfrance.com
An attractive website in English with information on things to see and do and where to eat in the Languedoc-Roussillon, by Alison Tinsley and Chris Fields, who live in Caunes-Minervois and Costa Rica. (And, if you're planning a trip to Costa Rica, click on Books and Maps to see the book they've written on accommodations there.)

http://www.audetourisme.com/

http://minervois-villages.ifrance.com/liste_villages.htm
This is a French website with lists of attractions and photographs of several Minervois villages - and an annoying pop-up ad.

http://www.sunfrance.com/
The official tourist site for the Languedoc-Roussillon region, in English.

http://www.languedoc-roussillon.eu.com/index.html
Maintained by an English couple who have lived in Languedoc since 1985

http://www.the-languedoc-page.com/
Packed with all sorts of information, including just about every market in the Languedoc.

http://www.le-guide.com/minerve.html
This page is specifically on Minerve; their home page for Languedoc-Roussillon is: http://www.le-guide.com/languedoc/index.html)

http://www.languedocliving.com/
Includes some information on regional events

http://www.herault-tourisme.com/
With sound - turn your speakers down! Slow to download.

http://www.linternaute.com/savoir/grands-chantiers/viaduc-de-millau/1.shtml
Photos of the Millau Viaduct, about an hour and a half from here by car and worth the drive!

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Toulouse:

http://www.uk.toulouse-tourisme.com/accueil/index_en.php   several useful links



Montpellier:

http://www.ot-montpellier.fr/en/
http://www.montpellier.fr/19-portail-montpellier-decouvrir-montpellier.htm   in French only


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Narbonne:

http://www.narbonne-tourisme.com/   For English version, click on Union Jack at top on right
http://www.tourisme.fr/office-de-tourisme/narbonne.htm   in French only



Carcassonne:

http://www.carcassonne.org/carcassonne_EN.nsf/vuetitre/docpgeIntroVisiter
http://www.carcassonneinfo.com   Bilingual site



Restaurants:

http://www.daytripsinsouthernfrance.com/food.htm
Brief reviews of several restaurants in the area by a couple who live part-time in Caunes-Minervois

http://www.linternaute.com/restaurant   in French only

http://www.cuisine-francaise.com/recherche-resto.htm   great food site, but in French only

Le Relais du Chantovent, in Minerve:
http://www.relaischantovent-minerve.fr/pageSalleRestaurant.htm
The Chantovent serves lovely meals in an attractive restaurant on the edge of a limestone gorge. The service is efficient and friendly and the outdoor terrace is a great place to be on summer evenings.


Hôtel/Restaurant d'Alibert, in Caunes-Minervois:
http://www.hoteldalibert.com/restaurant2.html
One of our favourite restaurants, in a Renaissance building and courtyard in a village with several 17th century buildings and a medieval abbey. One of the entrés, the seafood rouille is very garlicky and incredibly good. As a main dish, try the osso bucco; for dessert, the tarte au citron or the Pyramide au chocolat. The owner, Frédéric, is a delightful eccentric and quite fond of Canadians. Closed Sunday evening, all day Monday, Tuesday at noon and, in winter, from the beginning of October until late March.


Les Troubadours: http://troubadours.minerve.free.fr/restaurant.htm
A friendly restaurant at the edge of the gorge in Minerve, serving its own wine. Sunlit terrace in winter, shaded in summer. Vaulted stone ceilings indoors. Click on  "Notre village" for photos of Minerve and the immediate area.


En Bonne Compagnie: http://www.in-good-company.com/menu.html
An English-owned restaurant on the Canal du Midi at Homps, much enjoyed by our guests. New, creative menu each season.
Closed all day Sunday and Monday lunchtimes and, in winter, from mid-October until Spring.


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Garden tours:

Hidden Gardens Hidden France is a company specializing in garden tours in the Languedoc region. Recommended by the Lonely Planet guide to Languedoc Roussillon, the tours are led by Gill Pound, a local horticulturist, who also has a nursery specializing in drought-resistant plants in Caunes-Minervois. You can stay in Lou Recantou for the duration of the tours – contact info@hiddengardensfrance.com for further details on tour cost.


Other activities in the area:

Horseback riding:   http://www.pontdecalmel.com
A beautiful spot on the edge of the Montagne Noire, about 15 km. north of Oupia. This is a professional equestrian centre where riders of all levels can take lessons, go on long or short treks and/or stay in one of their 10 self-catering accommodation units.

http://www.petit-train-touristique.com/
A small tourist train running between Collioure/Port-Vendres and St Cyprien.

Le Train Jaune:   http://www.ter-sncf.com/languedoc/v2/index.asp  
A dramatic train ride through the Pyrenees. For train times, type in Villefranche de Confluent for "départ" and La Tour de Carol for "arrivée" or go directly to the schedule and zoom in.
February 2009: Neither of these links is working; check again in Spring.



Cycling - useful information and touring accounts:

Bicycle rentals nearby: http://www.mellowvelos.com
Phil Donnison runs Mellow Velos in Paraza, a village on the Canal du Midi. He rents different types of very good quality bicycles that he will deliver and pick up at no extra cost. He also provides helmets, maps, water bottles and suggested bike routes.

Travelling with a bicycle: http://www.bikeaccess.net/   George Farnsworth's interactive website is a great source of information for those who want to bring their own bicycles, as airlines increase fares and impose more and more restrictions on carrying bikes.

Bikely: http://www.bikely.com/   A new site with bike routes in several countries, and looking for participation from readers. I've begun to add a few of ours.

Warm showers list: http://www.warmshowers.org/
This website lists people throughout the world who are willing to host touring cyclists for a night, providing at least a place to pitch a tent and a hot shower.

English-French dictionary of bicycle terms: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/eng-fren.html  
For French to English, click on "French" when you get to the site.

Mike Bedard: http://www.mikebikes.org/
Mike and Carol Bedard are Canadians who have been cycling all over France almost every year since 1984 and Mike's website is full of details and excellent photographs of their trips.

Jan Boonstra: http://user.chollian.net/~boonstra/index.htm
Jan is a Dutch-born cyclist who lives and works in South Korea and has cycled in 31 countries. He has a great website with his travel stories, where he lives and, most useful for me, an amazing collection of bicycle clip art.

Michael Fiebach: http://cyclepass.com/index_s.htm
Mike lives in Colorado and has explored most of the western and southwestern U.S., western Canada and southern Europe, Austria and Germany.


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Bike shops:

Cycles Mari in Saint Chinian, about a half hour's drive from Oupia:
http://www.cycles-mari.com/
An excellent bike shop with very good stock and the best prices around. New and secondhand bicycles as well as rental bikes available. The owner is pleasant and helpful, but always busy, so plan to be patient if you go.

Gold Country Cyclery: http://www.tandems-recumbents.com
Rick Steele's bike store in Sacramento, California, specializing in tandem and recumbent bicycles. Rick takes great care to be sure that the bike is sized properly for you. (While staying in Lou Recantou, he solved a problem I'd had with neck pain and headaches for years.)


Bicycle touring:

http://www.canbicuba.ca/tailwind_rides.html
CanBiCuba runs Spring & Fall sportif bike tours in Cuba; it's a great place to cycle (Tim & I have done three tours there) and, with this group (Tailwind), you'll meet Cuban cyclists and be able to pass on your older cycling equipment to them. Only a few places left for the March 2008 tour.

http://www.BicycleExtravaganza.ca
Bike tours in the Niagara region with BikeNiagara, who have been doing these tours for 15 years.


Walking:

Long distance walking paths throughout France:   Grandes Randonnées
Books, maps, general information:   http://www.francewalkingtours.com

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Renting or leasing a car:

EuropCar, also called AutoEurope in Narbonne

Budget car rentals in France


Nature URLs, including birding sites:

http://www.aiguamolls.org/interior/ca/369-61/Parc-Natural-dels-Aiguamolls-de-lEmporda.html (in Spanish only)
A natural reserve in northeastern Spain, with a stork-breeding programme and a wide variety of habitats. Especially worthwhile during migration. A reasonable daytrip from Oupia.

http://www.magikbirds.com
Superb photos of birds by British birder and photographer, Dick Newell.

http://wilf.ca/gallery.asp
Wilf Noordermeer has travelled throughout the world, photographing natural sites and their flora and fauna.

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Weather sites:

The best and most detailed local weather forecast we've found yet is at:
http://www.yr.no/place/France/Languedoc-Roussillon/Oupia~2988994/
- and it's in English.

For other weather forecasts, go to:




Food and wine:

Market days in the Languedoc:
http://www.the-languedoc-page.com/tourism/languedoc-tourism-markets.htm
Food markets listed by day as well as by town. Brocante markets (antiques, etc.) listed also.

Le Jardin de la Clairette:   http://www.lejardindelaclairette.com
Nathalie and Alain Escamez have our favourite stall at the Olonzac market. They also welcome customers at their farm in Roubia, close to the Canal du Midi, with a 15% discount Wednesday afternoons. Have a look at their attractive, colourful website for more information on what's available to grace your table.

French Food and Cook:   http://www.ffcook.com
"The authentic French Cuisine site: French recipes and advice on French cooking presented by a Frenchwoman, Cécile."

French-English Food Dictionary A-K:
http://www.beyond.fr/food/french_food_dictionary_1.html
General food and gastronomy terms for the south of France. See top of their page for L-Z.

English-French Food Dictionary A-K:
http://www.beyond.fr/food/eng_french_food_dict_1.html
General food and gastronomy terms for the south of France. See top of their page for L-Z

Epicurious:   http://www.epicurious.com
"The World's Greatest Recipe Collection"

Dela Online:   http://www.deliaonline.com
Delia Smith's recipes.

101 Cookbooks recipes:   http://www.101cookbooks.com

David Rosengarten's food tips:   http://www.davidrosengarten.com

Languedoc AOC wines:   http://www.languedoc-wines.com/en/index.html

Languedoc wine:   http://www.the-languedoc-page.com/languedoc/languedoc-wine.ht


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Cooking classes

Jennifer, who lives in the nearby village of Cesseras, will give cooking classes or will cater for groups staying in gîtes in the area. To see the sort of thing she does, go to her website, at:   http://www.chefinfrance.blogspot.com

Odile Lévêque gives cooking classes and can prepare meals in the kitchen at your accommodations. It appears that she may not speak English. Her website (still under construction):   http://www.beth-salem.net/site/index.php



Travel:

A great new multimedia electronic internet magazine about travel and the philosophy of travel:   Travelosophy, at   http://www.travelosophy.ca
Travelosophy offers a wide range of travel topics, with photographs, videos and audio interviews. Archived programmes can be heard at any time online.
Article about us and our area at: http://www.travelosophy.ca/articles/?suid=62&op=3&uid=2

SNCF, France's rail travel company:
http://www.sncf.fr/indexe.htm
To access the site in English, click on the tiny Union Jack at the top, on the right.

Detailed information on getting the TGV at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris:
http://www.bonjourlafrance.net/france-trains/stations/paris_airport_charles_de_gaulle_tgv.htm

Air France: http://www.airfrance.com

RyanAir: http://www.ryanair.com

General travel information for France:
http://www.bonjourlafrance.net/

World Travel guide: http://www.worldtravelguide.net/index.ehtml
Guide to airports, cities, weather, etc. etc. Slow to download.

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Blogs about France:

On the Via Domitia, by Michael Redhill, winner of the prestigious 2007 Toronto Book Award and longlisted for the 2007 Man Booker Prize for his novel, Consolation. He and his family are living for a couple of years in nearby Narbonne:     http://ontheviadomitia.blogspot.com

Chez Loulou: one woman's view of life in a village close to ours in the Minervois, with the focus on food:     http://chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com/


Properties for sale

A friend of ours is selling her little stone house in the nearby village of Cesseras.
Details here

Another friend has a large house (11 rooms) in the centre of Olonzac, with an attached rental house and a garage.   Details here




Miscellaneous services:

Here's a great site for converting between metric and non-metric measures:
http://www.onlineconversion.com/

Computer miscellany:   (for people living in Europe)   We're very pleased with a company called KALEA Informatique, which sells, among many other things, accessories for computers, an adaptor that allows you to run 220V appliances in your car using the cigarette lighter as power, a USB-powered lamp for use with a laptop, a microphone for the computer and a digital gadget that allows you to listen to an MP3 player on your car radio.
Their website is at: http://www.kalea-informatique.com

My source for flags: http://www.graphicmaps.com/clipart.htm


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